Saiki

I arrived to Saiki in the early afternoon. It was a small town located on the eastern coast of Kyushu. My host, Sarah, invited me to a potluck dinner she was having at her Kimekomi-Ningyo (The 280-year-old art of fabric-covered wooden Japanese dolls) sensei’s home. Yamada sensei invited another ALT (English teacher) with her boyfriend, a Honduran/Japanese couple and two 50some year old ladies who were also her students. We spent the evening eating home-made meal, talking about travels, listening to rain and watching her grand-daughter’s concert. Beppu Yutsuki is an 11 year old girl who lives in Boston and plays violin so professionally, she’s been invited to perfom in Carnegie Hall. Yamada sensei was so proud of her grand-daughter, she glowed every time she talked about her.

 The dolls that Yamada Sensei has made

  

Dolls in the process

 Yamada Sensei

I was supposed to leave the next day but the rain kept hard at it and so I decided to stay one more night. The Honduran girl, Alexa, and I clicked well and we met up the next day to explore the city. Fortunately, the rain turned into a mini-typhoon and we had to spend a lot of time inside. And so I got a chance to meet some wonderful people. First was a 55 year old couple who ran an Italian restaurant. We stopped by their place for 5 minutes but ended up spending 2 hours. Somehow our conversation about travels turned into a very deep and meaningful conversation about life. We shared our views about the world, wars, people’s journeys, dreams and achievements. We all were very touched by our revealed thoughts and feelings and felt sad when we had to part. They gave me a very precious gift, a bag of rice which they grow themselves in their small backyard.

In the evening, Alexa took me to her samba lesson class. The teacher was a Brazilian woman. Sandra has so much fire, passion and positivity, her class keeps growing bigger and bigger. She travels for hours to other cities just so she can give her students the joy of being in her company and learning this beautiful and energetic dance. Her life story is not a fairytale. She met a Japanese man many years ago, moved to Japan and gave birth to two girls. However the marriage didn’t work out and soon she was divorced, alone in a foreign country and with two children. She struggled through many hardships but they never swayed her from being happy about life and kept her optimistic in the face of adversity. And although I found the class to be quiet difficult, for a few hours that I spent in her presence, I felt more energized than after a full night’s rest. Her whole being beamed from the inside and her eyes radiated a brilliant glow which touched everyone in the class.

  I was very happy rain kept me in Saiki.

The town of onsens

I caught a ferry to Kyushu at sunrise the next morning. By noon I was in Beppu, the infamous town of onsens (hot springs). I was staying with a 27 year old Mexican-American woman who was receiving her Masters Degree in Asia Pacific University. Unfortunately, Colleen was in the middle of a very difficult semester and had several papers and presentations due so she couldn’t spend time with me. Luckily, a few days prior to arriving to Beppu, I came across a very interesting profile on couchsurfing and contacted the person, setting up time to meet. Bahti was a 23 year old young Uzbek man studying International Management at APU. He spoke Russian, Uzbek, English and Japanese! We decided to spend a day together to show me around town.

Beppu is considered Japan’s onsen capital due to the amount of hot springs, geysers and jikoku (hells). Here’s what a local brochure written by a Buddhist priest, Kon Toukou in winter of 1957, said about hells:

“Heaven, as depicted by Dante, John Milton and William Blake seems neither beautiful nor interesting to me. However, I find the visions of hell conjured by these artists to be tremendously interesting. The cruelty of beings is so vividly expressed in them that I almost feel that I would prefer to go to hell rather than heaven. In this day and age, however, the heavens and hells described by these great poets and writers no longer evoke yearning of fear amongst many people. However, if you visit Beppu you will be confronted by a vision of eight great hells appearing before you. And these are certainly terrifying hells. Hot water gushes forth from the ground, roaring and rumbling fiercely, as numerous enormous crocodiles jostle violently with each other. Though you cannot see deamons, it is clear that one false step, one slip, will bring you to a rapid destruction. When I consider that these hells must be hotter than the reported cauldrons of hell, all my longing for hell fades swiftly away. Human beings need to experience hell in this life at least once, to empty themselves of their superfluous accumulations, to reflect on their past conduct, and to contemplate the path ahead. For this important purpose, I highly recommend a visit to Beppu, to witness the many aspects of hell. Only those who have been through hell and lived to recount the experience, are worthy to be called real human beings”.

I couldn’t have said it better. Hells were a sight to see. Spewing steam from the underground, boiling water produced such force strong enough to pull one and a half of train cars. The temperature nearby was hot enough to produce most exotic flora and fauna. One hell was breeding crocodiles due to climate conditions, another produced healing masks from red clay. One hell emerged 1200 years ago after a volcanic explosion, another was the oldest natural jigoku in Japan. They were fascinating to watch.

Foot Onsen

 In the evening Bahti took me to an onsen in a hotel where he worked and we finished the evening sitting on a pier and talking about life and travels. 

Hotel Onsen

View of the city from the onsen

The following day I decided to visit a secret onsen tucked away on a mountain.

The bus dropped me off in a very remote area. Far away from town’s center, I was standing in front of a mountain. Following directions on the map, I pursued a narrow road up the mountain. The street was so steep, at moments I barely held my balance. By the time I got to the onsen, I was out of breath, my legs were aching and I was yearning for the healing bath. I didn’t wait long. The owner quickly showed me around the main house and gave me directions to the bath house. I walked up a narrow trail through the woods and soon stood in front of a small clearing. The onsen was situated between a mountain waterfall and a high cliff overlooking the whole city of Beppu. It looked magical. Milky blue water of the pool beckoned the weary with its tranquil calm. Beautiful clear waterfall pacified the stressed with its soft thud on the stones. Pine scent of the forest soothed the senses of the tired with its earthly essence. The perfect balance of nature brought the needed peace and relaxation. I soaked in the onsen until I felt my limbs, body and soul fully rejuvenated.

 Road to the onsen

Path through the woods

 

 

 

Feeling completely revived, I went back to the main house for lunch. Sitting on tatami in seiza and enjoying Japanese cuisine I watched the city far below. The onsen did its job, my mind was at ease. I had no thoughts of stress or worry. Taking long, deep and steady breaths, I closed my eyes. Shutting out the sight sense, I immediately felt the other four senses sharpen. Hashi’s (chopsticks) smooth wood felt a bit rougher now; I felt tiny ridges and loose strings of timber. Soup emerged a new smell of miso, sweet potato and a hint of soy sauce. Minor buzz of fans in the kitchen and faint chatter of cooks surfaced in the background. Miso flavor tasted slightly more salty on my lips allowing me to appreciate its distinct savor.

I remembered a special restaurant in New York which held “Dark Dinning” events once a month. The guests wore black masks before entering the restaurant and the whole dinner course was served in complete dark. It was amazing to find out how a simple soup changed its taste when the sight sense was not helping the mind to recognize it.

 

In the evening, I received a call from Bahti inviting me to go to Beppu Park for a special festival. Over 450 volunteers have transformed an ordinary park into an enchanted fairytale. 20,000 bamboo and paper candles adorned the narrow paths of the park. Beautiful paper tents were dimly lit by colorful projectors. Fire torches lined the main entrance. Tiny lanterns, hanging in mid air, ornamented bamboo forest. Every path revealed a wondrous beauty of light. The paper for the candles was made and decorated by kindergarten and pre-school kids and they walked around looking for their masterpieces.

Young couples walked around holding hands; kids ran around in circles around parents; love, happiness and joy seemed to infect everyone. Including me. After the most extraordinary onsen, the festival was a perfect finish to an incredible day.

 

Last days in Matsuyama

I was able to share the very next day.  While walking around Matsuyama Castle Garden, I came across a 70some year old man who was so overjoyed with meeting me, he volunteered to be my guide.  Everywhere we went, he proudly pointed at me and introduced me as “American (then he said the bank name I used to work at) business girl”.  He was overwhelming and absent-minded at times but I knew how happy he was to meet me so I stayed with him for several hours while he took me back and forth around park.  I was very grateful to him and tried to show it in any small way possible.

 

Famous Dōgo Onsen- supposedly the oldest one in Japan

I spent a few more days in Matsuyama exploring the city on my own during the days while Ryota worked and talking to him in the evenings about his travels while his girlfriend and grandma cooked dinner.  On my last day, I bid farewell to Ryota in the morning when he left for work.  It was difficult to part.  I gave him a big hug and sincerely wished to see him again. 

I walked around the city all day and came back to his house in the early evening to pick up my bag.  There was no one else home but his grandmother.  When I walked through the front door, she met me by the entrance.  And then she said the most magical word:

- “Okaeri”. 

It means “welcome back” or “welcome home”.  The proper response is “Tadaima” which means “I’m back” or “I’m home”. 

I was so overwhelmed by her welcome that I barely whispered it back.  Now, I realize that to Japanese it might be just a saying which is so overused that the special meaning loses its uniqueness.  But it was the first one for me.  I almost cried when she said that one simple word to me.  It was just like Hisae’s mom making me my very first bento box (back in Hokkaido).  It was nothing special to them; in fact, Hisae said that her mom felt bad that she gave me such small and ordinary box.  But to me, it was very special.  I felt I was part of their society, even if it was just my imagination.  Being welcomed with Okaeri felt the same.  I was in Japan, I was in Japanese home, I was “welcomed home” by a Japanese obā-san (grandmother).  I was on the highest cloud. 

I packed my bag and left a small gift and a note in the room where I stayed.  Obā-san walked me outside and wished me good travels. 

Barely lit by the house’ lantern, she waited by the door until I turned the corner.  Overwhelmed with feelings I slowly walked in the dark and cried.  To be so ultimately happy felt almost unfair.  Knowing that my father was working long hours to raise money for his family, my mother was spending lonely days at home missing her children, my older brother was struggling to find a job in New York while helping out my best friend to babysit her child, my younger brother was working at a low-paying fast food stand in Israel while learning a new language, my younger sister was trying to find a full-time job teaching English in Taiwan to pay off student loans, my best friend was working full-time in New York and raising a child while waiting for her husband to come back from Ukraine; knowing all this, I was still able to put aside my feelings about them and allow the feeling of happiness of the moment pour into me and overflow.  That was a selfish thing to do?  May be but may be not.  At least they know that I can be happy at moments like these.  And may be being happy for me will give them enough strength to face tomorrow with a smile.

Ehime

It was very difficult to say good bye to Kochi.  A city which introduced me to Katsurahama, Jorgan, Sakamoto Ryōma, katsuo-no-tataki and Nakahama Manjirō was making sure I’d remember it for a long time.


My next stop was Ehime prefecture, Saijo city.  Saijo was a small equivalent of Kochi in terms of its location except it was located on the northern part of Shikoku.  The town was snugly nested between the Seto Inland Sea and a long range of mountain peaks.  It is known throughout Japan as the town of natural spring water.  Fountains are placed all over the town for residents to enjoy fresh water.  I was staying with an American girl from Louisiana who’s been living in New Jersey prior to arrival in Japan.   Audra and I clicked well.  On our first night together we talked until 2 in the morning and went up to the roof to watch stars.  The sky and the atmosphere took our conversation into the world of supernatural, holistic and metaphysical.


My stay in Saijo was very peaceful and relaxing.  Audra allowed me to borrow her bike and I got a chance to visit nearby shrines and hike a small mountain.  However, autumn weather was finally catching up with me and a few days were quiet windy and chilly.  But not for long.  Next stop was my last city on Shikoku Island: Matsuyama. 

 A Temple surrounded by water

I was really looking forward to meeting my next host.  He was a Japanese young man.  That was a first for me.  I’ve stayed with many Western boys and girls, and I’ve stayed with Japanese girls but not once have I “surfed” with a Japanese boy.  I was nervous and excited.  Ryota met me at Matsuyama station after a got a ride from a Japanese woman (also a first for me; it’s been men or couples so far).  His girlfriend and young cousin were sitting in the back seats and looked eager to meet me.  The feeling was mutual.  Ryota is a 24 year old young man who has traveled the world.  He worked as a scuba-diving instructor in Mexico, Maldives, Sicily and Thailand.  His English was excellent and he had a great sense of humor.  His girlfriend - Eri, who has traveled around with him, was on a quieter side but was very friendly. 

Although Dalai Lama was visiting Matsuyama that day, the plan was to go to a nearby town, about an hour away, to visit Ryota’s father who has been stationed there as a detective about a year ago.  Uzo town was holding a fair that day and Ryota’s father decided to treat us to a full day of sunshine, fair and delicious food.  And, oh boy, did we get it all!  It was one of the most wonderful days I’ve had in Japan so far.  We walked around beautiful Japanese gardens, ate super bad and scrumptious street food, danced to “Go, Johnny Go”, climbed stairs of old castle, ate cotton candy, competed in games to win prizes, listened to street concert, watched the sun set over a magnificent town of Uchiko and ate a 7 course traditional Japanese dinner complementing it with sake.  All the negative thoughts I’ve had due to being alone in Kochi and Tokushima have vanished.  Ryota, his father, his cousin Shuske, Eri, towns of Uzo and Uchiko, sunshine, fair, laughter, all shone on me with brilliant light.  Sharing their happiness and tranquility, they’ve transformed me.  I felt full of life, energy and light. 

Laying on a futon on tatami floor in a clean separate room in Ryota mother’s house that night, I was thinking how lucky I’ve been on my journey.  Not all of my days bring exciting adventures.  I’ve spent some days in train stations, staying away from rain and watching movies on my laptop all day.  But then I would be gifted with meeting someone so wonderful, my heart would flutter with just the thought of this person.  My heart skips a bit whenever I think of Yukiko of Sapporo, Yufuko of Abashiri, Adam of Kitami, Aido of Sakata, Toby of Higashikawa, Charlotte of Kazuno.  And now Ryota of Matsuyama.  He has taken a small place in my heart without knowing it.  His sparking eyes, contagious smile and cute accent are part of a very special memory.

This perfect day however was not over.  I’ve yet to have another very special surprise.  Around 12am when I was laying in “bed”, recalling all the wonderful details of the passed day, my phone rang.  It was my Kabbalah teacher from New York!  Her timing couldn’t possibly be more perfect.  Her voice brought back memories of New York which were snuggly tucked away in corners of my mind.  I was overjoyed to hear a familiar voice.  She said exactly the things I needed to hear, reminding me that Sharing is part of spreading the light to people.  I’ve been lucky enough to receive an enormous amount of happiness from Ryota’s family that day and now it was my turn to share.

Change of Mind

I was talking to a friend from New York a few days ago and she said that my blog “sounds” sad lately. “Now why would that be” I thought to myself. After careful evaluation I realized that being on my own has finally caught up with me. Staying in internet cafes and having almost no interaction with people for the last week affected my outlook and mood.

More than anything, I am a peoples person. I love talking, listening, watching and being with people. Lack of interaction reflected in my everyday life and therefore the blog. Realizing this made me more appreciative of the moments when I meet new people and get a chance to talk to them and learn about/from them.

And so my story continues. Tokushima was a nice city and I thought it was quiet beautiful...until I got to Kochi.

I arrived to Kochi late at night after hitching a ride with a 20 year old Japanese boy and his 18 year old girlfriend. The young are usually less interested in other people therefore we didn’t talk much except a few times when I tried to start a conversation. Still it was very interesting to observe their interaction from the back seat. Public display of affection is taboo in Japan, therefore the kids didn’t hold hands, hug or kiss. For a moment I thought there was nothing between them. But their body language spoke a different story. Hiroshi leaned so much towards his girlfriend, he practically sat in her passenger seat. Riri took care unwrapping onigiri for him while he was driving. He looked at her every time he spoke and she responded by turning her body to face him.

Watching people can be a great learning experience; and for me, watching Japanese is a fascinating past-time. Their culture is very different from mine. Language, customs, traditions, religion, day-to-day interactions are very distinct. But when it comes down to the primitive, their body language is easy to read. Without knowing the language, it’s easy to know what a drunk person is saying while laughing at his buddies; what lovers are feeling while flirting with each other; what a child is communicating to his grandmother and what she’s feeling inside; what a “sarariman” is thinking while smoking a cigarette late at night outside his office; what a service girl is thinking while straining a smile behind a McDonald counter; what a teenager is seeking in a late night arcade full of smoke (in Japan rarely do they seek a person of opposite sex; usually it’s a gateway time from school, studies and family). Observing the young couple from the back seat, I was able to learn a bit about their story without speaking words. A story I will take away with me as yet another experience of this wonderful country.

But I got off the topic. Kochi. Oh Kochi. I felt like Matsuo Basho, making up a haiku dedicating to Kochi which contains nothing more than Kochi name and a whole lot of exclamations.

Kochi was situated on the southern coast of Shikoku Island and about half an hour away from the shore. The city was bright, clean, warm and sunny. Graceful tall palm trees adorned long alleys creating an illusion of lost oasis of paradise; narrow and windy brook ran throughout the city crafting stunning Japanese Gardens; smiling faces of residents shaped images of fun filled days during holiday fairs; tall blue mountains enveloped the city in their majestic beauty inspiring men to write poetry. I was in love.

Roaming the city back and forth, exploring every corner of its exquisite serenity, I felt immense pleasure. I would arrive to internet café late at night and leave early in the morning to continue my discovery. On the third day of my stay, I decided to go to Katsurahama, a famous beach half an hour away from the city.

On my way to the beach I met a German man with whom I ended up spending the rest of the day. Jorgan was a 39 year old orthopedist and neurologist. Overwhelmed by each others’ stories, we sat on the sandy beach and talked for hours about life, politics, alternative medicine, G-d, history, travels, family values, cultures and traditions. Breaking down stereotypes, we talked about Nazi Germany, Holocaust and our views of historical events. He taught me about his practice and ways to take care of myself and I inspired him to believe in G-d and Universe Light again.

88 Temples Pilgrims

We parted ways feeling enriched and inspired. It seemed Kochi couldn’t stop giving me wonderful souvenirs and I was eagerly accepting them.